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In Conversation With Chef Kia Kanuta

July 8, 2026

We had a chat with Chef Kia Kanuta on the role of food, whānau, and gathering during the Māori New Year, and what it means to cook with aroha and intention. Matariki is a time of reflection and renewal. For a chef like Kia, those feelings naturally find their way to the table. Growing up at the intersection of his Māori and British heritage, the meals he returns to at this time of year are layered with memory: his grandfather’s chicken soup, his father's smoked fish, his Nan's rabbit pie. To cook them again is an act of aroha as much as it is an act of remembrance. In the conversation below, Kia shares what Matariki means to him through the lens of food and connection.

What does Matariki mean to you personally, and how do you usually choose to honour it each year?

For me, personally, Matariki serves as a reminder to slow down, reflect, and appreciate the life I have and the people who make it all worthwhile. As a restaurant chef, I often got caught up in the hustle and bustle of the kitchen and struggled to take breaks. Matariki wasn't acknowledged nationwide in the early days of my career; I’m reminded to be grateful for the progress I've made in my life and how far the industry has come.

 

Matariki is often seen as a time to reflect, reset and look ahead. How does that mindset show up in your life or creative process as a chef?

That’s a great question. As a chef at home, I use Matariki as a time to deep clean the pantry. Make room for new things. I love to see what other Māori chefs around the world are doing as they are in opposite seasons. I’ll often look through my old recipe idea books and brainstorm new dishes. Knowing what I’ve done is crucial to knowing what I will do in the future.

 

The idea of ‘wayfinding’ is about guidance – from the stars, from people, from within. What helps guide you, both in the kitchen and beyond?

My Nan has been my guiding star throughout my career. She nurtured my love for cooking from the beginning. Nowadays, my kai (food) is heavily dependent on seasonality. Mother Nature has often been the best guide in knowing what dish to do next.

 

Food plays such a big role in bringing people together. What role does kai play for you during Matariki?

Kai (food) plays a major role during Matariki and in my life in general. Often, you'll see local clubs and schools fundraising with bake sales and sausage sizzles. So, for me, Matariki is a good time to give back to the community. I’ll often volunteer over this period and help feed families that may be finding it tough over winter. At home, I celebrate Matariki for about two weeks. During that time, I stop in and visit friends, cook dinner and catch up over a glass of wine.

 

Are there particular dishes, ingredients or traditions you naturally return to at this time of year? What makes them meaningful?

This is where there’s a huge blend of my Māori and my British heritage. Cured, smoked, and low ‘n slow cooks come together in the kitchen. My Grandfather, who was an old Scotsman, made chicken soup and claimed it cured everything. My Nan would make rabbit or Shepherd’s Pie. My Father, a proud Māori fulla, often made Smoked Fish, Smoked Mussels and a traditional dish called Toroī (preserved, fermented mussels and watercress). I really miss these people. I don’t often make these dishes, but I will around Matariki.

 

When you’re hosting or sharing a meal, what are the small details that matter most to you?

There are so many! Right from when friends arrive, I like to make sure the ambience is warm and welcoming. I try and keep finishing touches to dishes visible as guests arrive to create curiosity around what’s for tea. I’ll always curate a playlist and make sure there’s constant music playing. The house should feel cozy and smell like dinner is 5 min away. I like to have bubbles on arrival and it’s important that I have a beverage pairing with my meals; whether it’s an Earl Grey with a biscuit or a wine with cheese.

 

What does a truly memorable shared meal feel like to you?

It’s tough describing how a truly memorable meal feels. I guess it's like something new but also incredibly familiar at the same time. For example, most recently, while in the Marlborough Sounds, I was lucky enough to go diving and foraging with the locals and gather some truly amazing produce. It was an awesome day from start to finish. Although the meal was humble (mussels in cream and a whole crayfish with kawakawa) cooked over coals in a cast iron pan on the beach, the company, the place and the kai all held equal Mana. As the sun set, we shared a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and the freshest seafood you can get. That’s what its all about really… I'll never forget that.

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How do you balance tradition and evolution in your cooking – especially working with culturally significant ingredients or techniques?

Another great question. Balancing tradition and evolution is something I have always been conscious of when developing Kai (food) Māori. I’ve always used the idea that if I can’t recognise it, I’ve gone too far; whether that’s in presentation or flavour. I make sure tikanga (practices and protocols) are upheld and produce is respected throughout the process. For example, minimising waste as much as I can by using off cuts to make stocks and sauces. There is an old Māori Proverb that says - “Kia whakatōmuri te haere whakamua,” which translates to “I walk backwards into the future with my eyes on the past.” This Proverb speaks to Māori perspectives of Time where the Past, Present, and Future are intertwined and life is a continuous, cosmic process.

 

We’d love for you to share a recipe as part of this piece. What kind of dish felt right for Matariki and why?

I’ve chosen to do a twist on my Nan’s Shepherd’s Pie. And instead of rabbit, I wanted to use wild game. So, this is my version - wild boar and venison pie, with kumara gratin as the topping. I believe in using wild game as much as possible as it’s sustainable and this practice helps protect the environment. This recipe is also very forgiving, so other game meats can be substituted which is great because then you’re experimenting and creating new recipes as well. 

 

What do you hope people feel or take away when they recreate and share this recipe?

Firstly, I hope the people who give this a go feel proud of themselves; cooking is not always easy. It takes time, patience and passion to give new recipes a try. We should never forget that food is a love language. Our first meal after we are born is given to us from our mothers; every meal after that is from Mother Nature. I hope they change ingredients, adjust techniques to suit their family preferences and end up creating something unique to their household that continues to be requested for years to come.

 

I hope this recipe makes people a little more conscious of seasonality and sustainability.

 

Mostly, I hope people feel connected to the ones they are cooking for. I haven't always been good at communication, so I use food as a way to show love without having to say anything. I still do at times but these days I'm able to use my words as well! 

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What comes through in Kia's reflections is a sense of generosity. Food, in his hands, is a way of honouring the people who shaped him and connecting with the people around him now.

 

As Matariki invites all of us to reflect on the past and look ahead, Kia's perspective is an insight into what that can look like in practice.

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